How to care for jeans
We often receive questions like "How should I wash them?" or "How often should I wash them?"
On this page, we'll answer those questions and explain why jeans age over time in an easy-to-understand way.
Understanding the mechanism will surely deepen your enjoyment of nurturing your jeans!
What are jeans, anyway?
Jeans are pants made from denim fabric.
All of our jeans use 100% cotton selvedge fabric.
Selvedge is the natural edge of the fabric formed when a shuttle loom weaves cloth, with the weft thread passing back and forth.
The "red ear" with a red line running through it is the most famous, characterized by the unique texture of selvedge fabric woven on old-fashioned power looms.
Red-eared selvedge denim fabric
About the structure of denim fabric
Denim is a twill fabric made of warp and weft threads.
Typically, only the warp threads of jeans are dyed with indigo. The weft threads are undyed white.
Photo of unwoven warp threads
Why do jeans change from indigo to white?
Indigo dyeing is a method where the color fades very well. Also, each individual warp thread is not completely dyed indigo to the core. This state is called "nakajiro" or "shinjiru" (white core). As the indigo color on the surface of these warp threads wears away, the white core is exposed, causing the jeans to lighten in color.
Enlarged cross-section of fabric
What causes the color to fade?
There are two main factors that cause jeans to change from deep indigo to a lighter, whiter color.
1. Fading due to washing
Indigo fades with each wash. The water used to wash dark indigo jeans will turn blue.
Photo of raw denim fabric after washing
2. Fading due to wear
Areas that rub frequently, such as the raised parts of wrinkles formed from wear, raised parts of seams, and frequently touched areas, will cause the indigo on the surface to wear away and the color to fade.
Jeans that have aged due to wear
Handling methods differ depending on the type of fade you aim for
The aging process is unique to each person, depending on washing frequency, wearing environment, and fit. This is where the joy of completing your own unique pair comes from.
Below are handling methods to control fading to some extent.
*As mentioned above, wearing conditions vary, so please read this as a reference only.
1. For those who want a high-contrast fade with distinct wrinkles
Please refrain from washing as much as possible. Frequent washing softens the fabric, making it difficult for wrinkles to form. Also, the overall color will lighten, making it harder to achieve strong contrasts. However, if they get dirty or start to smell, please wash them. If you endure too long, the fabric will deteriorate, turn yellowish, and become more prone to tearing. *Some people starch their jeans to stiffen the fabric and create stronger contrasts, but this is not recommended.
2. For those who don't necessarily need distinct wrinkles
Feel free to wear and wash them without any particular concerns. If you wash them frequently, they will become beautiful light blue jeans. However, be aware that if you wash them too often, they may lack contrast and appear flat.
Below is UCHIDA HÔSEI's recommended washing and drying method for jeans.
About Washing
We recommend closing buttons and zippers and washing them inside out.
*This is to prevent color fading caused by rubbing inside the washing machine. Depending on your perspective, this can also be considered a form of aging, so either approach is fine.
Please use detergent that does not contain fluorescent brighteners or bleach if possible.
Remove from the washing machine as soon as possible after washing to prevent creases.
About Drying
The key is to thoroughly smooth out wrinkles and dry them in a short amount of time.
On sunny days, dry them outside in the sun for a crisp finish. Indoors, using a fan to blow air on them will help them dry quickly and suppress unpleasant odors.
For hanging, we recommend closing buttons and zippers and hanging them inside out to prevent misshaping and sun fading. If you smooth out wrinkles and properly separate the selvedge, it's perfect.
*Avoid using a tumble dryer if possible. If you must use a dryer, please be aware that it may cause fabric shrinkage and leather hardening.
Summary
First, imagine your ideal fade, then wear and wash them while carefully observing. You're bound to notice changes at unexpected moments. "Wrinkles formed lines," "The color faded a bit too much, so I'll wash them less often," "The fabric turned yellowish, so I'll wash them more often." By repeating these observations, you'll gradually get a feel for how to wear them to achieve the fade you're aiming for.
There's no single "right" way to wear jeans. "Wear your jeans the way you like them," is UCHIDA HÔSEI's suggestion. If you wear them with an awareness of the aging process and enjoy it, you will surely have your own unique pair of jeans completed in a few years.